Last updated: September 21, 2026
What "Crape Murder" Is — and Why It's Bad
Every February across Mississippi, you'll see it: crape myrtles chopped down to ugly knobby stubs, every branch sheared at the same height. Gardeners call it "crape murder," and Mississippi State University Extension horticulturists have been campaigning against it for years — one Extension specialist memorably noted that February marks "crape murder season" in Mississippi.
Here's why it's harmful, not just ugly:
- It destroys the tree's natural architecture. A properly grown crape myrtle develops graceful, vase-shaped branching and stunning exfoliating bark in cinnamon, gray, and cream tones. Shearing it flat every year produces knobby "knuckles" where dozens of weak shoots erupt — the bark never gets its chance to shine.
- It creates weak, floppy growth. The flush of shoots from shearing cuts is weakly attached and often can't support the weight of summer bloom clusters — they flop, break, and look worse than if you'd done nothing.
- It delays and reduces flowering. Severe shearing forces the tree to spend energy regrowing structure instead of producing blooms.
- It's completely unnecessary. Crape myrtles bloom on current-year wood regardless. Light, intelligent pruning gives you more flowers and a better-looking tree with less work.
The good news: crape myrtles are remarkably forgiving. Even a previously murdered one can usually be retrained over a few seasons (more on that below). For the full case against topping any tree, see our article on why tree topping is bad.
When to Prune Crape Myrtles in Mississippi
Late winter — late January through February — is the ideal window in central Mississippi. The tree is dormant, branch structure is fully visible without leaves, and pruning now stimulates the vigorous spring growth that produces summer blooms.
MSU Extension guidance is consistent on this: prune in late winter or early spring before growth begins, since crape myrtles flower on the current year's wood. Pruning after spring growth starts removes developing flower buds and wastes the tree's energy.
A few timing notes:
- Deadheading during summer (snipping spent bloom clusters) can encourage a second flush of flowers — this is light maintenance, not structural pruning, and it's the one summer pruning that's genuinely useful.
- Never do major shearing in fall. Late-season pruning stimulates tender new growth that gets damaged by Mississippi's winter cold snaps.
- Emergency cleanup anytime. Broken or storm-damaged branches should be removed whenever they occur — don't wait for the calendar.
How to Prune a Crape Myrtle Properly: Step by Step
You'll need sharp bypass pruners (branches up to ¾ inch), loppers (up to about 1¾ inches), and a pruning saw for anything larger. Clean, sharp tools make clean cuts that heal well.
Step 1: Remove the suckers. Clear all the shoots sprouting from the base of the trunk and from the roots. These steal energy from the main canopy. Cut them flush at their origin.
Step 2: Remove crossing and rubbing branches. Inside the canopy, identify branches that cross through the center or rub against each other. Remove the weaker of each pair back to its point of origin. This opens the canopy for air circulation — which also reduces powdery mildew, a common Mississippi crape myrtle complaint.
Step 3: Thin for structure. Step back and look at the tree's form. For a tree-form crape myrtle, select 3–5 strong main trunks and remove competing stems. Remove inward-growing branches, weak twiggy growth, and any branches growing at awkward angles. The goal: an open, vase-shaped structure where you can see the beautiful bark.
Step 4: Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood. Cut back to healthy wood. If you see signs of crape myrtle bark scale (white felt-like patches on bark — increasingly common in Mississippi), prune heavily infested branches and consult MSU Extension's guidance on this pest.
Step 5: Head back only with purpose. If a branch is genuinely too long, cut it back to a side branch at least one-third its diameter — never to a stub. Most years, steps 1–4 are all a crape myrtle needs. Mature, well-placed crape myrtles often need almost no pruning at all beyond sucker removal.
The guiding principle from MSU Extension: the most attractive crape myrtles are allowed to grow into their natural form. Pruning should enhance that form, not fight it. (Source: MSU Extension — Crapemyrtle: Flower of the South)
The 3-Cut Method for Larger Limbs
When removing a branch thicker than about 2 inches, use the 3-cut method to avoid tearing bark down the trunk:
- Undercut: About 12 inches from the trunk, cut one-third of the way up through the branch from underneath.
- Top cut: A few inches farther out, cut down through the branch. It breaks cleanly at the undercut instead of ripping bark.
- Final cut: Remove the remaining stub with a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen ring where the branch meets the trunk). Don't cut flush into the collar, and don't leave a long stub.
This technique applies to all trees, not just crape myrtles — it's the foundation of proper pruning everywhere. MSU Extension's pruning publication illustrates it in detail. (Source: MSU Extension — Pruning Landscape Plants)
Common Crape Myrtle Pruning Mistakes
Annual shearing ("crape murder"). The big one. If your crape myrtle is the wrong size for its location, the real fix is replacing it with an appropriately sized cultivar — crape myrtles come from miniature shrubs to 30-foot trees — not shearing it into submission every February.
Topping to "make it bloom more." Severe pruning does not increase blooming; it delays and reduces it while producing weak growth. Light thinning produces the best flower display.
Pruning at the wrong time. Summer shearing removes developing blooms. Fall shearing invites winter damage. Late winter is the window.
Leaving stubs. Every cut should go back to a branch collar, a lateral branch, or the trunk. Stubs die back, invite decay, and sprout weak shoots.
Using dull tools. Ragged cuts heal slowly and invite disease. Sharpen pruners annually — it takes five minutes.
Over-pruning young trees. A young crape myrtle needs its canopy to establish roots. Light structural guidance in the first few years beats aggressive shaping.
Can You Fix a Previously "Murdered" Crape Myrtle?
Yes — usually. Crape myrtles are tough, and even badly sheared ones can be rehabilitated:
Year 1: Stop shearing. In late winter, select 3–5 of the strongest, best-placed shoots emerging from each knuckle and remove the rest. Clear suckers and crossing growth.
Year 2: Thin the selected shoots further, keeping the strongest leader on each. Begin shaping toward the natural vase form.
Year 3+: Maintain with light annual thinning. The knuckles from old shearing will remain visible for years but become less prominent as the canopy develops above them.
Severe cases — where the trunk is a mass of knuckles with no good structure to select from — may be better replaced, especially if the cultivar is wrong for the space anyway. A hedge and shrub trimming professional can assess whether rehabilitation or replacement makes more sense.
Professional Pruning for Mississippi Landscapes
Crape myrtles are just one part of a healthy Mississippi landscape. If your shrubs, hedges, or ornamental trees need professional attention — done right, never sheared into submission — we're here.
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Sources
- Mississippi State University Extension Service — Crapemyrtle: Flower of the South (Publication 2007), pruning and cultivar guidance: https://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/publications/P2007_web.pdf
- Mississippi State University Extension Service — How to Prune Crape Myrtles (video and step-by-step): https://extension.msstate.edu/blogs/extension-for-real-life/how-prune-crape-myrtles
- Mississippi State University Extension Service — Pruning Landscape Plants (Publication 3589), the 3-cut method: https://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/publications/P3589_web.pdf
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to prune crape myrtles in Mississippi?
Late January through February — late winter dormancy, before spring growth begins. Crape myrtles bloom on new wood, so late-winter pruning maximizes summer flowers. Avoid major pruning in summer and fall.
What is "crape murder"?
The practice of shearing crape myrtles flat every winter, leaving knobby stubs. It produces weak shoots, delays blooming, ruins the tree's natural form and bark display, and creates ongoing maintenance. MSU Extension horticulturists actively campaign against it.
Will my crape myrtle bloom if I don't prune it?
Yes — often better than a sheared one. Crape myrtles bloom on current-year wood regardless of pruning. Light thinning for structure and air flow gives the best bloom display; heavy shearing is counterproductive.
How far can I cut back a crape myrtle?
For routine pruning, remove no more than about 25% of the canopy in a year, using thinning cuts back to branch origins or suitable laterals. If the tree is drastically oversized for its location, consider replacing it with a smaller cultivar rather than fighting it annually.
Should I remove the seed heads after blooming?
Deadheading spent bloom clusters in summer can encourage a second round of flowers. It's optional light maintenance — snip the spent cluster back to a leaf node. Don't confuse this with structural pruning.
My crape myrtle has white stuff on the bark. What is it?
Likely crape myrtle bark scale, an increasingly common Mississippi pest — white or gray felt-like patches on trunks and branches. Prune heavily infested branches and consult MSU Extension's bark scale guidance for treatment options. Good air circulation from proper thinning helps reduce pressure.